The Alpha ICE Titanium design is based on several previous editions of the Alpha ICE. This light is machined by Gilbert and his team at Hirsch Machine, the same local shop that produces the Ready Made components. Some people balk at the idea that the parts aren't machined in my own shop. I like to remind them of two things. First, Gilbert has been a machinist for longer than I've been alive. The quality is as good as you are going to get on planet earth. Second, I'm pretty much a one-man shop and I only have so many hours in a day. The reason you haven't seen much new stuff lately is because I don't have time to work on anything new. So, it was either have the lights made at Hirsch or not have them at all. I'll let you decide if that was a good move :)
I've been working on this driver for over two years. It's simple, powerful, and full of features even the most demanding flashlight enthusiasts will appreciate. A maximum current of 3.4 Amps delivers class-leading power and an advanced software platform lets you make Icarus a reflection of your unique preferences by programming it any way you like...
This driver is 100% designed, programmed, and manufactured (in the USA) just for me. Until now, I've been limited by "what is available," but Icarus is the realization of a long standing goal. No expense is spared, no shortcuts taken, no compromise accepted. I'm proud to put the Prometheus stamp on this driver as the crowning jewel of the Alpha platform. Enough talk, let's get to the details.
Click the image above for more details about Icarus on the product page.
There isn't a lot to say about this light. It's titanium: boom. The machining details on the head evolved over a number of different special editions of the Alpha ICE (Integrated Cooling Element). As always, I'm looking for balance and classic lines. The entire light is machined from solid Domestic CP2 Titanium bar stock. No tubing is used in the manufacturing of this particular light; not because it's a bad idea, you just can't get it in the right size. Ever try drilling a 3/4" hole 4" deep in titanium? Yeah.
Ah yes, thermal conductivity. We are producing a lot of lumens and that makes a lot of heat. Deep grooving on the head helps get heat out of the light and into the environmet as quickly as possible. Everyone is going to ask why this light is made from CP2 (Grade 2) titanium and not from 6Al/4V (Grade 5) titanium. Sure, 6/4 is stronger...but we are making a flashlight, not a fighter jet. Strength doesn't really matter when aluminum will do just fine.
What the flashlight maker should concern themselves with is thermal conductivity. CP2 titanium conducts heat 3x better than 6/4 titanium. End of discussion? If you are making a light with this much power out of Grade 5 then you have no idea how to engineer a flashlight.
Please read this before you consider buying a titanium light:
Titanium is a galling material; it wants to smear and not slide past itself. This means you aren't supposed to make threaded parts out of it. Stainless steel is the same. If you ever torque a stainless nut onto a stainless bolt you are never getting the two apart.
We can get away with this in a flashlight because there isn't a lot of torque applied. However, this does mean that proper thread lubrication is ESSENTIAL. If you aren't the type to maintain your lights on a regular basis (clean/lube) then don't buy this light, you won't be happy with it.
First, DO NOT change the battery through the tailcap. You should basically never open it unless you need to remove the clip or replace the switch.
Second, you should expect a signficant break in period where the threads feel rough. They will eventually burnish out and become smooth if you maintain proper lubrication. The head threads are pre-treated with an extremely heavy molecular tapping fluid that is an excelent anti-galling agent.
During the break in period you'll get a lot of black colored "carry off" as the threads basically sand themselves down. If you feel and increase in thread roughness, wipe this away with a clean cloth, but do NOT degrease the threads. Apply Nano-Oil after wiping down. Continue to wipe and re-oil as needed.
You should feel improvement over the course of several weeks. You can "play" with the threads but don't try and excessively accelerate the break in process. Part of that is allowing the threads to rest and the oil to penetrate the surface.