Prometheus Task Light Mini (High CRI)
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The right tool for the job
Any job that involves seeing
Task lights have a magnetic base! They are not self-standing, so you'll need to attach it to something steel.
Introducing: the Task Master...mini! This is actually the bulb I started working with before discovering the focusable Yuji PAR30 used in the standard task light. However, they are difficult to source and very expensive.
The Mini has a much smaller, lighter weight head to give you more flexibility in mounting. However, this comes as the cost of reduced output. Physics you know. The coolest thing about this SORAA bulb is you can magnetically attach modifiers that change the beam angle (included with each light).
This High CRI bulb is ONLY available in 3000K, which is warm but easy on the eyes. More details below.
The quick and dirty:
- Made to order (see notes at bottom of page)
- Industrial grade. As usual, I spared no expense...right down to the Mil-Spec (MS51412-25) washer inside the base. This is a tool, not a toy.
- SORAA Brilliant 9050 High CRI (110V GU10 base)
- 3000K (warm) @ 600 lumens
- SORAA Snap System Compatible = 10* spot (25* & 36* modifiers included)
- Magnetic base with 236 lbs holding force
- Waterproof cord grip/strain relief
- Genuine Honeywell toggle switch with sealed boot
- Genuine 3/4" Loc-Line components
- Full ceramic GU10 bulb socket
- 110V US ONLY!
Why this bulb?
SORAA is a world leader in High and Ultra-High CRI. They are primarily focused on the professional indoor lighting space, unlike Yuji which is an LED technology company. Most of our house is wired with MR16 bulbs (12V but the same shape is this one) and I've switched over all the bulbs in our house to SORAA.
The other cool technology is the SORAA Snap System that allows you to effortlessly change the beam angle. They offer a range of modifiers that simply snap onto the front of the bulb with a magnet. We are including my preferred modifiers...but you can find other ones on the internets.
This bulb is about 1/2 the output of our standard Task Light, but keep in mind the distance from the source to target plays a big role in brightness, as does the beam angle.
Why 3D printing?
Where to begin. First of all, the printer I'm using is all kinds of proprietary and prints in a material that is 2-4x stronger than the next strongest commercially available FDM material. That means it's good enough to make usable parts, not reasonable approximations.
The bulb shroud, base, and base cap are all 3D printed on our Markforged. Honestly, this project would have never happened without this printer and the quality it can deliver.
The main thing I love about this project is it's a tour-de-force in modern design an manufacturing tools. All of the components are designed in CAD with Fusion 360 and those parts are printed directly from the 3D model. Everything else is purchased. Finally, it's all assembled by hand.
In another sense, this project is about what I didn't do. And that is spending days programming parts for the CNC and then machining huge (for me) chunks of aluminum for 3 separate parts. The technology available to me was the difference between launching this product at a reasonable price...and never getting around to it.
The entire project was about two weeks from a concept in my head to a finished product ready for action. Normally this kind of product development can take 6 months to a year. We live in amazing times.
What you need to know if you are going to buy this:
- Each task light is made to order: We don't carry any finished inventory at this time. One more amazing thing the 3D printer allows. It may take up to 2 weeks to ship your task light because of other workload in the shop and on the printer. Each set of parts takes 15 hours to print. I also have limited components on hand, but plan to make as many lights as there is demand. We are in a ramp up phase.
- Water resistant: The light should be splash resistant, but it's not waterproof or submersible. The bulb itself has no environmental sealing, and the base cap o-ring is only meant to keep liquids from seeping in from the gap. I opted for a sealed switch boot and cord grip to keep out common sources of contamination: sweaty, wet, or oily hands and various shop fluids that might drip down the cord and enter the base of the light.
- The Magnet: no, not a typo. It hold's 236 lbs. The magnet is covered with a rubber boot to prevent scratching and liquid ingress. To remove the task light from a magnetic surface you MUST rock the base sideways. There is no physical way to just pull it directly off of a surface.
- Loc-Line: if you bend the moving segments too far they can disconnect. If you've ever used loc-line you already know this. Be mindful not to bend the segments beyond their intended range, and also use two hands when positioning the light.
- Positioning: There are limits on how far you can move the head a way from the base. This is true with all "gooseneck" style lamps. This is not a defect...it's basic physics. The head is somewhat heavy because of the (necessary) heat sink, and if you extend the neck too far it can droop. When mounting, you have to work within the physical limits.
- 90 Degree Head: This is a functional configuration even though it looks goofy. You can remove the 90 degree segment and reassemble the light if you wish.
- Heat: the bulb gets quite hot, but has plenty of cooling. The bulb shroud is designed as a handle, heat shield, and also cradles the base of the bulb to eliminate strain on the fragile bulb-to-socket connection.