Support
FAQ
Is the alpha/delta really the world’s best flashlight?
That is absolutely my intent. I’ll take the Pepsi challenge with any flashlight, at any price, made by any manufacturer; even if they have had decades of experience and millions of dollars to spend on development.
I do not mean that my light will “beat” any other light in every possible category that you might use to compare flashlights. I mean: in terms of balanced design, engineering, features, performance, ease of repair, and sustainability; you won’t find another light in this class.
There are a LOT of other custom flashlight makers these days. Some are good, some are great, but we believe Prometheus lights are still the best. I spent over a decade designing products for other people and I’ve been designing and manufacturing flashlights since 2010.
It’s not that hard these days to make some parts, buy some components, and slap a flashlight together. We go far (far) beyond that and blend engineering, design, human factors, and manufacturing reliability in a way that we believe sets the bar for custom flashlights.
I do not mean that my light will “beat” any other light in every possible category that you might use to compare flashlights. I mean: in terms of balanced design, engineering, features, performance, ease of repair, and sustainability; you won’t find another light in this class.
There are a LOT of other custom flashlight makers these days. Some are good, some are great, but we believe Prometheus lights are still the best. I spent over a decade designing products for other people and I’ve been designing and manufacturing flashlights since 2010.
It’s not that hard these days to make some parts, buy some components, and slap a flashlight together. We go far (far) beyond that and blend engineering, design, human factors, and manufacturing reliability in a way that we believe sets the bar for custom flashlights.
Are Alpha/Delta lights built for life?
Yes, our lights are exactly that, "built for life." That means both for a lifetime of use and for the daily rigors that an everyday light must face. My main goal is reliability above all else, and we have spared no expense nor compromised any process in the pursuit of that goal. That said, all things break eventually, but don't worry, we've got you covered.
Many products are designed in a way that makes it difficult, if not impossible, to separate an object into it's component parts for repair, recycling, or reuse. Alpha & Delta lights are designed based on the principle of "design for disassembly." This means it's easy to take apart so that it can be repaired, upgraded, or eventually recycled. This flashlight should never need to be thrown away because it can be fixed if something breaks and upgraded when technology changes.
The great thing is, you don't need to be an expert to repair or upgrade our lights. It's designed with the gadget hacker in mind. The entire light can be assembled and disassembled with basic hand tools.
Many products are designed in a way that makes it difficult, if not impossible, to separate an object into it's component parts for repair, recycling, or reuse. Alpha & Delta lights are designed based on the principle of "design for disassembly." This means it's easy to take apart so that it can be repaired, upgraded, or eventually recycled. This flashlight should never need to be thrown away because it can be fixed if something breaks and upgraded when technology changes.
The great thing is, you don't need to be an expert to repair or upgrade our lights. It's designed with the gadget hacker in mind. The entire light can be assembled and disassembled with basic hand tools.
Can you please explain what a lumen is?
Sure I'll give you the short version, but here is a link to wikipedia in case you want all the gory details.
A lumen is the SI unit of luminous flux and is related to the way the human eye perceives light. It is a measure of the "total amount" of light emitted from a source. It does not define how that light is shaped into a directional beam.
Many lights claim output in Watts of power. This doesn't really make sense for LED lights and is a hold-over from incandescent light bulbs. Power is not a measure of brightness, but it's a way to make relative comparisons between light sources. You CANNOT compare the Watts of an incandescent bulb with an LED emitter...apples and oranges.
A lumen is the SI unit of luminous flux and is related to the way the human eye perceives light. It is a measure of the "total amount" of light emitted from a source. It does not define how that light is shaped into a directional beam.
Many lights claim output in Watts of power. This doesn't really make sense for LED lights and is a hold-over from incandescent light bulbs. Power is not a measure of brightness, but it's a way to make relative comparisons between light sources. You CANNOT compare the Watts of an incandescent bulb with an LED emitter...apples and oranges.
What is an OTF (Out The Front) lumen?
LED emitters are rated by the manufacturer for total "emitter lumens." This is a theoretical number and has nothing to do with the lumens you actually "see," especially in terms of flashlights. Many flashlight manufacturers claim "emitter lumens" on their spec sheets. This makes their numbers look really high, but artificially so. OTF lumens is a measured number, not a theoretical one.
My lights are tested in an integrating sphere designed to measure OTF lumens. This means you know exactly what you are getting. I test every Blue Label Alpha and Delta light for OTF lumens before I send it out and include the report with each flashlight. OTF lumens are typically 25%-35% lower than rated "emitter lumens" for any flashlight of any kind. It's just physics.
My lights are tested in an integrating sphere designed to measure OTF lumens. This means you know exactly what you are getting. I test every Blue Label Alpha and Delta light for OTF lumens before I send it out and include the report with each flashlight. OTF lumens are typically 25%-35% lower than rated "emitter lumens" for any flashlight of any kind. It's just physics.
I see a lot of lights on the internet that are a fraction of the price, what gives?
Four things:
1. These lights are mass produced, typically in China. That makes them less expensive regardless of the quality. If you want to spend the least amount of money, buy one of those. We make every Alpha and Delta in our shop in Mountain View, CA. If you want to own a unique piece of craftsmanship, made by someone who cares and makes it especially for you, buy one of ours.
2. Most flashlight brands are owned by Chinese companies based in China. It's cheaper to manufacture in China than in the US, but these companies also have much lower profit margins. It's fine for them to make a few dollars on each light (and that's all they make) because the cost of business is much lower, labor primarily. Most Chinese-owned brands sell their lights for less than the cost of the materials and labor that go into our lights.
3. The manufacturing quality of many mass-produced lights is often quite excellent. However, the least expensive lights compromise on less expensive components (specifically LEDs) and they are often sub-standard. The cheapest LEDs, which also have the highest lumen output, produce a light that is very blue/purple. Think of the old fluorescent lights and the nasty "cool" color they produce. We use the most premium LEDs on the market and spend a great deal of effort to maximize the accuracy and color of our chosen LEDs. We don't just buy whatever is the cheapest available at the time. We often wait months for the correct "bin" of LED to become available.
4. Many manufacturers inflate or falsely advertise their lumen rating. I recently saw an XML based light claiming 10,000 lumens. It's just not possible. Cree, the company that manufactures the XML, claims the maximum output for the LED at 1000 lumens. This is under ideal laboratory conditions AND represents the "emitter lumens." No flashlight in the world is actually going to produce that number "out the front" of the light because there are losses in electrical efficiency, heat efficiency, and optical efficiency. You certainly aren't going to get 10x the manufacturer's rated output.
1. These lights are mass produced, typically in China. That makes them less expensive regardless of the quality. If you want to spend the least amount of money, buy one of those. We make every Alpha and Delta in our shop in Mountain View, CA. If you want to own a unique piece of craftsmanship, made by someone who cares and makes it especially for you, buy one of ours.
2. Most flashlight brands are owned by Chinese companies based in China. It's cheaper to manufacture in China than in the US, but these companies also have much lower profit margins. It's fine for them to make a few dollars on each light (and that's all they make) because the cost of business is much lower, labor primarily. Most Chinese-owned brands sell their lights for less than the cost of the materials and labor that go into our lights.
3. The manufacturing quality of many mass-produced lights is often quite excellent. However, the least expensive lights compromise on less expensive components (specifically LEDs) and they are often sub-standard. The cheapest LEDs, which also have the highest lumen output, produce a light that is very blue/purple. Think of the old fluorescent lights and the nasty "cool" color they produce. We use the most premium LEDs on the market and spend a great deal of effort to maximize the accuracy and color of our chosen LEDs. We don't just buy whatever is the cheapest available at the time. We often wait months for the correct "bin" of LED to become available.
4. Many manufacturers inflate or falsely advertise their lumen rating. I recently saw an XML based light claiming 10,000 lumens. It's just not possible. Cree, the company that manufactures the XML, claims the maximum output for the LED at 1000 lumens. This is under ideal laboratory conditions AND represents the "emitter lumens." No flashlight in the world is actually going to produce that number "out the front" of the light because there are losses in electrical efficiency, heat efficiency, and optical efficiency. You certainly aren't going to get 10x the manufacturer's rated output.
I hear a lot about color temperature and CRI but I don’t know what it is or why I should care.
Color temperature is a measure of visible light that relates to how "warm" or "cold" the light appears. In the past, fluorescent lights were less desirable because they were too "cold." In contrast, incandescent lights (typical light bulbs) are typically "warm" and have a more natural appearance. Here is a link to a wikipeida article on color temperature.
Typically "daylight" is considered to be 6500K (Kelvin). The daylight-balanced photographic film standard is 5600K. Most lights we offer are 4000-5000K neutral white. We choose this range because it's the most natural looking, not too cool and not too warm.
CRI (Color Rendering Index) is a scientific measure of a light sources ability to accurately show colors compared to the sun. The sun scores a perfect 100. We don't produce any light with less than 75 CRI. Most lights we make are 80-90 CRI. Here is a link to a wikipedia article on CRI.
For me, good color rendition is incredibly important and one thing that sets our lights apart from many other name brand flashlights and virtually all off-brand lights. The flashlight world is shifting away from maximum lumens towards better CRI, and we are the company that has led the way.
Typically "daylight" is considered to be 6500K (Kelvin). The daylight-balanced photographic film standard is 5600K. Most lights we offer are 4000-5000K neutral white. We choose this range because it's the most natural looking, not too cool and not too warm.
CRI (Color Rendering Index) is a scientific measure of a light sources ability to accurately show colors compared to the sun. The sun scores a perfect 100. We don't produce any light with less than 75 CRI. Most lights we make are 80-90 CRI. Here is a link to a wikipedia article on CRI.
For me, good color rendition is incredibly important and one thing that sets our lights apart from many other name brand flashlights and virtually all off-brand lights. The flashlight world is shifting away from maximum lumens towards better CRI, and we are the company that has led the way.
Why on earth should I spend $300+ on a flashlight!?
Excellent question. A $300 dollar light might not be something I can talk you into, especially if you are "just looking for a flashlight."
The short answer is because you appreciate fine tools made by expert craftspeople.
The slightly longer answer is because it represents an idea. I think, as a society, we benefit from being more in touch with where our goods come from, how they are made, and who makes them. I'm selling a perspective on life as much as a product. If you are only concerned with the price and features, this light is probably not for you. If you want to spend your hard earned dollars on a product that is meant to last a lifetime, that represents the way you look at the world, and made by a person and not a faceless corporation, then you are in the right place.
I recently had an interesting conversation where someone told me (I'm paraphrasing) that a $300 flashlight was a display of excessive consumerism and that a $5 big-box special was a more responsible purchasing decision. In my opinion, the situation is exactly the opposite. Buy it once, buy it for life.
The short answer is because you appreciate fine tools made by expert craftspeople.
The slightly longer answer is because it represents an idea. I think, as a society, we benefit from being more in touch with where our goods come from, how they are made, and who makes them. I'm selling a perspective on life as much as a product. If you are only concerned with the price and features, this light is probably not for you. If you want to spend your hard earned dollars on a product that is meant to last a lifetime, that represents the way you look at the world, and made by a person and not a faceless corporation, then you are in the right place.
I recently had an interesting conversation where someone told me (I'm paraphrasing) that a $300 flashlight was a display of excessive consumerism and that a $5 big-box special was a more responsible purchasing decision. In my opinion, the situation is exactly the opposite. Buy it once, buy it for life.
Flashlights are so 1985, why should I buy one instead of a headlamp?
One reason I like flashlights is that they are a classic tool. Flashlights are an interesting artifact of human history and have been continuously developed over 100 years. I love refinement, and my lights represent a long tradition of making things better.
Headlamps are great for a lot of special use cases. However, a headlamp is not a replacement for a flashlight and vice versa. You have to have the right tool for the job. If you want massive power, wearing it on your head is not a very good option (ie. blinding others). If you want hands-free, a flashlight is not a very good option (ie. it requires a hand).
One reason I really like flashlights is because they're the best form factor for use cases that are unexpected. I use my headlamp when I know what I'll be using it for and expect my hands to be full. I carry a flashlight because I don't know when I'll need it or what I'll need it for. It hangs out in my pocket until I drop my keys in the dark, when I'm trying to fix a broken radiator hose at a rest stop at night, or when I need to make a midnight fridge run and don't want to wake everyone else up.
Headlamps are great for a lot of special use cases. However, a headlamp is not a replacement for a flashlight and vice versa. You have to have the right tool for the job. If you want massive power, wearing it on your head is not a very good option (ie. blinding others). If you want hands-free, a flashlight is not a very good option (ie. it requires a hand).
One reason I really like flashlights is because they're the best form factor for use cases that are unexpected. I use my headlamp when I know what I'll be using it for and expect my hands to be full. I carry a flashlight because I don't know when I'll need it or what I'll need it for. It hangs out in my pocket until I drop my keys in the dark, when I'm trying to fix a broken radiator hose at a rest stop at night, or when I need to make a midnight fridge run and don't want to wake everyone else up.
Do you have a warranty policy for your lights?
Shipping
Do you have international shipping?
Absolutely! International shipping is no problem. Be advised, delivery to most countries takes a week or two, but sometimes various delays can cause a package to take 3-4 weeks in unusual circumstances. Also, not all countries provide tracking information during transit in your country. So, you might see a tracking event where the package is "departure scanned" when it leaves the US, but you won't see another tracking event until the package is delivered.
Can you mark my international shipment as a gift?
I'm sorry, I "could" do that but I choose not to because that is against both US and International law. I know, I know, you've asked other makers to do that they are happy to comply. That doesn't concern me. I run a legitimate business and I follow the letter of the law. If you have an issue with the amount of duty your country charges I'd take that up with your government's customs office ;)
Why are there *@#$%! extra charges on my international shipment!?
Yep, you'll also have to take that up with your country's customs and duty office. Nearly all nations of the world impose import duty (VAT) and/or processing fees on international shipments. As such, I'm not responsible for (nor aware of) those charges. It's your country and your responsibility to know your customs & duty practices.
Do you provide tracking information?
All orders receive an automated shipping confirmation email from shipping@darsucks.com when your label is printed. This does not mean the carrier has picked up the shipment, nor does it mean they have scanned it. You may need to wait 24-48 hours after receiving the shipment email for the tracking information to be updated. Don't forget to check your spam filter.
Did you send me the wrong tracking information?
Nope, the system is automated so it's not possible for you to receive the "wrong" tracking information. You may need to wait 24-48 hours after your package has shipped to get tracking information. If you track it sooner than that, you might see error messages or the tracking information for a different package. The USPS seems to recycle tracking numbers.
Please keep in mind that you'll get the shipping notice when I print the label. This does not mean the carrier has picked up the shipment, nor does it mean they have scanned it.
Please keep in mind that you'll get the shipping notice when I print the label. This does not mean the carrier has picked up the shipment, nor does it mean they have scanned it.
Did you send my package to the wrong address?
Sorry but my shipping system automatically ships to the address you provided during checkout. So, if it went to the wrong address it's because you provided the wrong address :)
What carriers do you ship with?
USPS
I highly recommend the USPS because it's cheap and reliable. People like to badmouth the USPS. Their tracking system isn't fantastic, and sometimes there are unexplained delays to foreign and domestic shipments. On international orders your package gets handed off to your nation's mail service...which may also be unreliable.
However, my experience is that your package will get to the destination if you are patient. I've shipped thousands of packages with the USPS over the years, and only a handful have ever been lost. That's a darn good record in my opinion.
International customers should check with their customs service if it seems like there is an unusual delay. It's somewhat common for a customs office to hold the package without notice, or even mark the shipment as "delivered" when it's received by customs.
Countries that participate in the international "DelCon" tracking program should see tracking updates once the shipment lands in the destination country. Countries that do not participate in the program will stop seeing tracking updates when the shipment leaves the US. Normally the next scan is a delivery scan, but again, this depends on your country's mail system.
FedEx
FedEx is extremely reliable as fast, but you get what you pay for. It tends to be much more expensive than USPS. We have daily FedEx pickups and I highly recommend this service for high value shipments.
International customers should be aware that FedEx will pay any customs and duty charges on your behalf and send you a separate invoice for those charges. It is the customer's responsibility to be aware of their nation's customs and duty practices.
I highly recommend the USPS because it's cheap and reliable. People like to badmouth the USPS. Their tracking system isn't fantastic, and sometimes there are unexplained delays to foreign and domestic shipments. On international orders your package gets handed off to your nation's mail service...which may also be unreliable.
However, my experience is that your package will get to the destination if you are patient. I've shipped thousands of packages with the USPS over the years, and only a handful have ever been lost. That's a darn good record in my opinion.
International customers should check with their customs service if it seems like there is an unusual delay. It's somewhat common for a customs office to hold the package without notice, or even mark the shipment as "delivered" when it's received by customs.
Countries that participate in the international "DelCon" tracking program should see tracking updates once the shipment lands in the destination country. Countries that do not participate in the program will stop seeing tracking updates when the shipment leaves the US. Normally the next scan is a delivery scan, but again, this depends on your country's mail system.
FedEx
FedEx is extremely reliable as fast, but you get what you pay for. It tends to be much more expensive than USPS. We have daily FedEx pickups and I highly recommend this service for high value shipments.
International customers should be aware that FedEx will pay any customs and duty charges on your behalf and send you a separate invoice for those charges. It is the customer's responsibility to be aware of their nation's customs and duty practices.
Why did my package have signature confirmation?
Any order over $200USD has signature confirmation automatically applied. This is to protect both me an you. I know sometimes this is inconvenient, but it's better than a missing package. Besides, you can't make everyone happy. Some people get mad that their shipment did NOT have shipping confirmation, the next person will be mad that it DOES have shipping confirmation.
My package is marked as delivered but I still don't have it, what can I do?
I borrowed this handy-dandy infographic from Amazon. They know a lot about shipping stuff and this is what they recommend. In my experience, 80% of the time someone else in your household has the package so check with the wife and kids. The mail carrier is supposed to physically scan the package whey they are on your doorstep. Sometimes they are naughty and scan it at some other time. You should first check with your mail carrier to see if they remember delivering the package. The sooner you do this the better the odds. Next you should check with your postmaster.
Remember to be nice; USPS employees are just people and sometimes they mess up...just like you do. I think of it like being in a restaurant: you can get as mad and shouty-voice as you want, but I hope you like eating spit...or in this case...not getting your mail in the future.
Remember to be nice; USPS employees are just people and sometimes they mess up...just like you do. I think of it like being in a restaurant: you can get as mad and shouty-voice as you want, but I hope you like eating spit...or in this case...not getting your mail in the future.
My package is taking longer than it's supposed to, why?
Please allow for up to 2 business days of processing time for your order, in addition to the carrier delivery estimate. We make every attempt to ship orders by the postal collection cut-off time every business day, and for the most part we do. That said, sometimes circumstances cause delays in order processing, like a holiday rush or Kickstarter project fulfillment. Additionally, if your order contains any customizations (ie. engraving, anodizing, etc.), they are built-to-order and may require additional processing time. After that it's up to the USPS, fate, the weather, and perhaps your nation's customs and postal service if you are international. If you have questions, you are welcome to contact the USPS or your local postal service.
One thing to note, as of January 1, 2015 the USPS is closing down 82 sorting facilities around the US. This is creating some crazy delays depending on where you live. Sorry about that, but it's way out of my hands.
One thing to note, as of January 1, 2015 the USPS is closing down 82 sorting facilities around the US. This is creating some crazy delays depending on where you live. Sorry about that, but it's way out of my hands.
I’m still feeling impatient, if I email you repeatedly and/or get really angry about it, will that make my package arrive faster?
Sadly no. You've mailed a letter (or a package) before right? Once you put it in the mail...it's in the mail. I have access to the same information you do via the tracking number I emailed you. There is no super-secret place I can go to find out what is "actually" going on with your package.
It's been more than 7 business days and my (domestic) package has not arrived. What can I do?
If a package is not delivered within 7 business days, the recipient can initiate a missing mail search. All you have to do is fill out this form on the USPS website. Unfortunately with international shipments you are probably out of luck. Once the USPS passes the package to your country's postal service, you'll have to take that up with them.
Most international packages arrive within the specified time frame, but sometimes they can take up to a month. This is not the fault of myself or the USPS, but strange things can happen once the shipment crosses the pond. Again, you'll have to talk to your local postal service once the tracking shows the package has departed the US. Unfortunately many countries will tell you to take it up with the USPS...which is incorrect.
Most international packages arrive within the specified time frame, but sometimes they can take up to a month. This is not the fault of myself or the USPS, but strange things can happen once the shipment crosses the pond. Again, you'll have to talk to your local postal service once the tracking shows the package has departed the US. Unfortunately many countries will tell you to take it up with the USPS...which is incorrect.
I’m pretty sure my package is lost, how can I file a claim with the USPS?
Easy, just follow this link for more information! Okay, it's the government. It's not that easy. You can only file a claim if your shipment was insured and you'll have to provide lots of documentation. If your shipment is uninsured, the best you can do is submit a missing package request (above).
Funny story, I placed my order and used the wrong shipping address. Can I blame you for that?
You can try but it won't get your package to the right place. Most times you can email me and I'll catch the shipment, but I ship orders first thing every morning. I don't typically check every single email I get just in case I need to cross reference it with some bad shipping information.
Don't get me wrong, I understand the issue. You were probably in a hurry when you made the order and made a mistake. I've even done it myself. In both instances I'm really sorry. But if you provided the wrong address, you provided the wrong address, and there isn't much I can do about it. If you are in the continental US, you can contact the USPS about a "USPS Package Intercept" and they will attempt to redirect the enroute package...for an additional fee of course.
Don't get me wrong, I understand the issue. You were probably in a hurry when you made the order and made a mistake. I've even done it myself. In both instances I'm really sorry. But if you provided the wrong address, you provided the wrong address, and there isn't much I can do about it. If you are in the continental US, you can contact the USPS about a "USPS Package Intercept" and they will attempt to redirect the enroute package...for an additional fee of course.
Returns
Refunds / Returns
1. If your purchase does not meet your expectations, you may return it within 7 days of receiving it. The item must be in "like new/re-sellable" condition to get a refund. Please contact us, by email, before you return any items. (support@darksucks.com)
2. Refunds are NOT offered on special order or "built-to-order" items like custom flashlights because they are customized to each buyer's personal preferences.
3. Refunds are NOT offered for minor cosmetic defects. My products are built to be functionally perfect, not cosmetically perfect.
4. Refunds are NOT offered on Brass or Copper flashlights, unless the vacuum seal is unbroken. Once the seal on the bag is broken, the light can no longer be re-sold. If you don't want to take this risk, please don't buy a brass or copper light.
5. The buyer is responsible for return shipping and the item MUST be sent via a service that provides delivery confirmation.
6. Please feel free to ask any and all questions before purchasing. I try to represent my products completely and accurately!
2. Refunds are NOT offered on special order or "built-to-order" items like custom flashlights because they are customized to each buyer's personal preferences.
3. Refunds are NOT offered for minor cosmetic defects. My products are built to be functionally perfect, not cosmetically perfect.
4. Refunds are NOT offered on Brass or Copper flashlights, unless the vacuum seal is unbroken. Once the seal on the bag is broken, the light can no longer be re-sold. If you don't want to take this risk, please don't buy a brass or copper light.
5. The buyer is responsible for return shipping and the item MUST be sent via a service that provides delivery confirmation.
6. Please feel free to ask any and all questions before purchasing. I try to represent my products completely and accurately!
Warranty Resolution
1. To make a warranty claim please contact us, by email, before you return any items. In 80% of cases we can help you troubleshoot and and resolve problems without returning an item. (support@darksucks.com)
2. Warranty options in order of preference include: repair, component replacement, complete replacement. The best option is determined at our discretion. For example, if there is a problem in the tailcap we will not replace the entire light, we'll fix the tailcap if the correct parts are available.
3. In all cases you must pay for shipping the light (or other item) back to us, and we will pay to have it shipped back to you. I call this my "Even-Steven Return Policy." I know it's not typical, but I think it's fair. Please keep in mind I'm a customer as well.
4. If your item is delivered Dead on Arrival (DoA), please email and we'll work out an arrangement on a case-by-case basis.
2. Warranty options in order of preference include: repair, component replacement, complete replacement. The best option is determined at our discretion. For example, if there is a problem in the tailcap we will not replace the entire light, we'll fix the tailcap if the correct parts are available.
3. In all cases you must pay for shipping the light (or other item) back to us, and we will pay to have it shipped back to you. I call this my "Even-Steven Return Policy." I know it's not typical, but I think it's fair. Please keep in mind I'm a customer as well.
4. If your item is delivered Dead on Arrival (DoA), please email and we'll work out an arrangement on a case-by-case basis.
Warranty
Alkaline Battery Warning
1. Alkaline battery damage is the #1 cause of failed lights. Alkaline battery damage IS NOT covered under warranty.
2. Alkaline batteries will power our AA and AAA lights, but we strongly discourage their use. Alkaline batteries leak and/or produce corrosive gas during use. This will destroy your flashlight, guaranteed.
2. Alkaline batteries will power our AA and AAA lights, but we strongly discourage their use. Alkaline batteries leak and/or produce corrosive gas during use. This will destroy your flashlight, guaranteed.
Foursevens Warranty (Legacy)
What’s going on anyway?!
What did Prometheus acquire?
What did Prometheus NOT acquire?
Does Prometheus have any obligation to maintain the Foursevens warranty?
What is Prometheus going to do?
What are the new warranty terms and resolution options?
Why is Prometheus choosing this route?
Warranty on Foursevens products purchased from Prometheus.
- As most of you know, Prometheus Lights has acquired the Foursevens brand and a portion of their assets.
- I’ve built the Prometheus brand on ethics, transparency, and hard work. Some people are always going to see an evil motive in an acquisition story like this. Take the time to get to know Prometheus and you won't be one of those people. [link to Our Story]
- Foursevens was a very small company. Prometheus is a very small company. A handful of employees in both cases. This is not written by a PR department nor a room full of executives trying to figure out how to maximize profits at the expense of our customers. Please keep that in mind as you consider the following.
What did Prometheus acquire?
- The asset acquisition gives Prometheus Lights the right to use the Foursevens trademarks, flashlight designs, technology, social media accounts, and customer email list. That’s pretty much it.
- This means the company Foursevens no longer exists as a legal entity, but the brand name does. That brand is now owned and operated by Prometheus Lights.
What did Prometheus NOT acquire?
- We have NOT acquired the “company” Foursevens LLC.
- In short, this means we did not acquire the debt, equity, cash accounts, or legal obligations of Foursevens LLC.
- While Prometheus does not carry the burden of any debt or legal obligations, we also do not gain any benefit from equity or cash accounts, which would be required to service those debts and obligations…like warranties.
Does Prometheus have any obligation to maintain the Foursevens warranty?
- Technically, Prometheus retains no obligation for any debts or warranties previously held or expressed by Foursevens LLC., because Prometheus owns the brand, not the company.
- Obviously, customers want ALL warranties to be honored. Most of the time I (Jason Hui) am a customer myself and own plenty of products with various warranties. I get it. I understand both sides of the equation. This document is long because I want to give you the opportunity to do the same.
- Don’t freak out yet, keep reading.
What is Prometheus going to do?
- First, let’s just acknowledge that anything less than honoring 100% of warranties on their original terms, no questions asked, is going to make some people upset.
- Though we have no obligation to do so, we will be offering three potential resolutions for ALL previous Foursevens customers regarding warranty issues.
- Please note, the terms offered are essentially experimental. If it becomes clear that this policy results in a total disaster, Prometheus reserves the right to alter these terms without prior notice.
What are the new warranty terms and resolution options?
- Any light purchased after January 1, 2017 will be covered under the original Foursevens warranty terms, if the flashlight is one Prometheus continues to manufacture, and you can provide proof of purchase.
- In all cases, if we do not continue to manufacture the light, we have no physical way to repair or replace the parts (or the entirety of) those lights…because those parts/lights don’t exist.
- Resolution 1: we’ll repair/replace your light for free. If the above conditions cannot be met, you can opt for resolution 3 below.
- If your light was purchased before January 1, 2017, the chart below will help you better understand which resolution below applies to your Foursevens light.
- Resolution 2: you’ll be charged a small fee + shipping to repair and return your light, which will establish a new warranty with Prometheus Lights.
- Resolution 3: you’ll be granted a discount code for 40% off anything Prometheus sells that is eligible for discounts. For example, custom lights are excluded. If a product is excluded from discounts this is indicated on the product page below the pricing information. These codes do not expire, and can only be used once. If your light is unrepairable and you choose to receive a discount code, your light will not be returned to you. There are several reasons for this, but the main one is that we return defective lights to the manufacturer for analysis.
- If any Foursevens lights share components (like tail switches) we will offer those as repair parts for a compatible light of any age, when/if they become available.
- Email Support: In all cases, for all lights, you can email support@darksucks.com and we’ll do our best to help you troubleshoot any issues with your light.
- Many times we can fix the problem with advice or a little DIY on your end.
- Prometheus has hired TJ (a previous Foursevens employee) to continue his roll handling email support issues. He knows the products better than anyone!
- For detailed information on returns, see the support/returns section on the website. In short, you’ll need to contact us before you return the light.
Why is Prometheus choosing this route?
- Prometheus is a small company, and we simply don’t have the resources (material or financial) to fully support warranties on 10 years of Foursevens products. If we were strictly a profit driven company (of any size) we’d just tell everyone tough luck and move on.
- I spoke with several business advisors over the months I considered the acquisition, and the number one concern was Prometheus going bankrupt trying to service Foursevens warranties.
- A small percentage of every sale (on any product) goes toward paying for future warranty claims…a form of insurance for a company. Prometheus did not make any of those sales, nor do we own the Foursevens bank account, and so our pot of money dedicated to servicing those warranties contains exactly zero dollars.
- To repair or replace any Foursevens light (at no cost to the customer) means those dollars come out of the business. We aren’t a giant corporation with millions of dollars in our rainy day fund. If servicing all warranties means Prometheus goes out of business then nobody wins.
- Servicing warranties takes actual cash to buy the parts, but it also takes someone’s time to make the repairs and get the unit back in the mail. That is time that cannot be spent on activities that create revenue…so it is really a double loss.
Warranty on Foursevens products purchased from Prometheus.
- The existing warranty policy from the Prometheus site reads: “I personally warrant my products to be free from (gross) defects in materials and workmanship for the lifetime of the product (regardless of the owner) or the lifetime of the company...whichever comes first. Hey, I'm just being practical.”
- See, no tricks. Just plain English and an abundance of transparency. This policy will apply to future Foursevens lights sold by Prometheus.
- Finally, I’m sorry for any inconvenience or other hardship people experience as part of the transition. Unfortunately, it is something that happens in these situations and some people are going to get the short end of the stick. I’m trying to minimize the short sticks and also ensure that the company can stay healthy and continue to put quality products into the world. We all know it's impossible to make everyone happy, but I do hope this makes most of you happy, or at least understanding.
Warranty Resolution
1. Please contact us by email before you return any items. In many cases we can help you troubleshoot and and resolve problems without returning an item. (support@darksucks.com)
2. Warranty options in order of preference include: repair, component replacement, complete replacement. I will choose the best option, at my discretion. I'm a fair guy so you should expect a fair deal. For example, if there is a problem in the tailcap I will not replace the entire light, I'll fix the tailcap.
3. In all cases you must pay for shipping the light (or other item) back to me, and I will pay to have it shipped back to you. I call this my "Even-Steven Return Policy." I know it's not typical, but I think it's fair. Please keep in mind I'm a customer as well :)
4. If your item is delivered Dead on Arrival (DoA), please email me and we'll work out an arrangement on a case-by-case basis.
2. Warranty options in order of preference include: repair, component replacement, complete replacement. I will choose the best option, at my discretion. I'm a fair guy so you should expect a fair deal. For example, if there is a problem in the tailcap I will not replace the entire light, I'll fix the tailcap.
3. In all cases you must pay for shipping the light (or other item) back to me, and I will pay to have it shipped back to you. I call this my "Even-Steven Return Policy." I know it's not typical, but I think it's fair. Please keep in mind I'm a customer as well :)
4. If your item is delivered Dead on Arrival (DoA), please email me and we'll work out an arrangement on a case-by-case basis.
Materials & Workmanship
1. I personally warrant my products to be free from (gross) defects in materials and workmanship for the lifetime of the product (regardless of the owner) or the lifetime of the company, whichever comes first.
2. This includes failure of the LED module. The LED is not covered if the light has been otherwise severely damaged, but it can be replaced for the cost of components, labor, and shipping.
3. I do not attempt to deliver cosmetically perfect products. Minor cosmetic defects in the surface and/or finish should be expected and are not covered by warranty. Nicks, dings, and scratches are common. Everything I make goes through dozens of handling steps. Materials like aluminum, brass, and copper are very soft. My shop is full of machinery and tools that are made of hardened steel. Add gravity to the equation and you can see the potential for small defects.
4. I do not attempt to remove "machining marks" from my products, so you should expect to see evidence of the machining process. Customers often comment that an absence of visible machining marks is the "mark" of a high quality product. This is absolutely false. Typically surface finishing is a means to hide mistakes and poor quality. If you are a machinist, these tool marks tell a story about the skill of the machinist and the care/precision the parts were made with.
2. This includes failure of the LED module. The LED is not covered if the light has been otherwise severely damaged, but it can be replaced for the cost of components, labor, and shipping.
3. I do not attempt to deliver cosmetically perfect products. Minor cosmetic defects in the surface and/or finish should be expected and are not covered by warranty. Nicks, dings, and scratches are common. Everything I make goes through dozens of handling steps. Materials like aluminum, brass, and copper are very soft. My shop is full of machinery and tools that are made of hardened steel. Add gravity to the equation and you can see the potential for small defects.
4. I do not attempt to remove "machining marks" from my products, so you should expect to see evidence of the machining process. Customers often comment that an absence of visible machining marks is the "mark" of a high quality product. This is absolutely false. Typically surface finishing is a means to hide mistakes and poor quality. If you are a machinist, these tool marks tell a story about the skill of the machinist and the care/precision the parts were made with.
Batteries, chargers, & stand-alone electronics
1. Batteries, chargers, and other electronics are covered for a period of 1 year after purchase. This applies only to random "failure" and not failure because of physical "damage." I reserve the right to differentiate between failure and damage.
2. Batteries purchased from us will not be covered if the safety circuitry has been tripped as a result of over-charging or over-discharging. We can tell. Please recharge all batteries early and often to maintain optimal battery health.
2. Batteries purchased from us will not be covered if the safety circuitry has been tripped as a result of over-charging or over-discharging. We can tell. Please recharge all batteries early and often to maintain optimal battery health.
"Wear" Items
1. Wear items like o-rings, front glass windows, and switch boots are not covered under warranty. However, if you send the light back I'm happy to service the light for the cost of components and shipping.
2. Flashlight switches are a wear item, but they also carry a 12 month warranty. They do wear out over time, but they should not fail prematurely.
3. Beta/Kappa QR canted coil springs are covered for 12 months from the date of purchase. New springs can be user-replaced and ordered on the Tools & Maintenance page. Please follow the installation instructions carefully!
2. Flashlight switches are a wear item, but they also carry a 12 month warranty. They do wear out over time, but they should not fail prematurely.
3. Beta/Kappa QR canted coil springs are covered for 12 months from the date of purchase. New springs can be user-replaced and ordered on the Tools & Maintenance page. Please follow the installation instructions carefully!
Neglect, abuse, misuse
1. Threads and o-rings must be kept lubricated and clean to prevent damage to the light. I highly recommend you purchase the "maintenance kit" because ALL equipment requires preventative maintenance. It's like changing the oil in your car...you don't have to do it, but it will keep it from breaking down.
2. O-rings that become torn from lack of lubrication are not covered under warranty, as this would fall under "neglect."
3. Abuse and misuse of our products is not covered under warranty, and a fee may be applicable if repair is possible.
2. O-rings that become torn from lack of lubrication are not covered under warranty, as this would fall under "neglect."
3. Abuse and misuse of our products is not covered under warranty, and a fee may be applicable if repair is possible.
Upgrades & Modifications
1. Prometheus Lights does not provide modification services, or upgrades beyond the Icarus driver upgrade or LED swaps for Alpha/Delta flashlights. If you need someone to work on your light you should check out Candlepower Forums which is full of information and people who do custom work.
2. Voluntary LED swaps are a flat fee of $75 and covers all materials, labor, cleaning, maintenance, and return shipping via Priority Mail in the Continental US. International customers must pay return shipping. Signature Confirmation is mandatory. An LED swap essentially requires disassembling the entire flashlight. You may choose from any of the standard LEDs we offer.
2. Voluntary LED swaps are a flat fee of $75 and covers all materials, labor, cleaning, maintenance, and return shipping via Priority Mail in the Continental US. International customers must pay return shipping. Signature Confirmation is mandatory. An LED swap essentially requires disassembling the entire flashlight. You may choose from any of the standard LEDs we offer.
Catastrophic Damage
It happens. If your light suffers catastrophic damage, I'm happy to repair it for the cost of components, labor, and shipping. Contact me for an estimate. Of course it's possible that "catastrophic damage" means the light is unrepairable.
LED Lightbulbs
All our LED bulbs carry a 3 Year Warranty. If you have an issue with a bulb, please see the "Returns" information above for instructions.
The "don't be a jerk" clause
I'm just a guy and I do the best work I can. If you have a problem with one of my products and you are nice about it, I'll go out of my way to exceed your expectations. If you have a problem and you are a jerk about it...well, you can probably see where I'm going right?
Instructions
DOWNLOAD A PDF MANUAL FOR YOUR LIGHT BELOW:
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Prometheus Lights:
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FourSevens (Current lights):
Maintenance
Tips
In short, keep your threads and o-rings clean and lubricated if you want to maintain optimal performance for as long as possible.
All mechanical systems require regular maintenance to function properly. A flashlight is not exception. We get plenty of warranty claims that are from a lack of maintenance. Save us both some trouble!
Failing to properly maintain your light is like buying a car and never changing the oil. We sell (and recommend) Nano-Oil for lubricating o-rings and threads. It works great and has been extensively tested for o-ring compatibility. It’s the only thing I use on my lights.
Replacement O-rings, lubricants, and tools are available on our “tools & maintenance” page.
All mechanical systems require regular maintenance to function properly. A flashlight is not exception. We get plenty of warranty claims that are from a lack of maintenance. Save us both some trouble!
Failing to properly maintain your light is like buying a car and never changing the oil. We sell (and recommend) Nano-Oil for lubricating o-rings and threads. It works great and has been extensively tested for o-ring compatibility. It’s the only thing I use on my lights.
Replacement O-rings, lubricants, and tools are available on our “tools & maintenance” page.
HOW TO CLEAN & MAINTAIN THREADS (FLASHLIGHTS & PENS)
Quick cleaning (dry):
Dirty threads can cause premature wear and inhibit the flow of electricity, leading to erratic behavior of the light. You mainly need to worry about the o-rings and threads that are exposed during battery changes.
1. Remove o-rings before cleaning to prevent damage. Normally you can just use your fingers, but we also have special tools to make this easier.
2. If you are performing regular maintenance you can just use with a dry toothbrush, paper towel, tissue, or Q-tip to wipe down the threads.
3. Try to press the swab (or towel) into the threads to get down into the grooves. A toothbrush works great here, but it will also tend to spray dirty stuff around.
4. You don’t want to use cleaning fluids unless you must. Regular cleaning should mostly eliminate the need for cleaning fluids.
5. Reapply a light coat of oil. A few drops will suffice. Screwing the parts back together will distribute the oil to the internal threads.
6. Do not oil internal threads, only apply oil to external threads.
Deep Cleaning (cleaning fluids):
It’s critical that you don’t introduce moisture or oil into the electronics.
1. Remove o-rings before cleaning to prevent damage. Normally you can just use your fingers, but we also have special tools to make this easier.
2. Start with a dry toothbrush, paper towel, tissue, or Q-tip to remove the bulk of the contamination.
3. If your threads are gritty and/or gunked up (from lack of maintenance naughty you) I like to use rubbing alcohol or Windex (something that cuts grease & evaporates quickly).
4. Use as little cleaning fluid as possible. This prevents the liquid from migrating into places where it should not.
5. Try to press the swab (or towel) into the threads to get down into the grooves. A toothbrush works great here, but it will also tend to spray dirty stuff around.
6. Allow parts to dry completely before applying oil.
7. Reapply a light coat of oil. A few drops will suffice. Screwing the parts back together will distribute the oil to the internal threads.
8. Do not oil internal threads, only apply oil to external threads.
Special Note - Alpha Flashlight Head threads:
1. There is a tight fit between the driver mount and the head threads, so it requires a special technique.
2. Take a Q-tip and mash the end flat with a pair of pliers. This will allow the Q-tip to fit between the threads and the cylinder that holds the LED driver.
3. Run the Q-tip clockwise several turns and then back it out counter clockwise. Repeat with a new tip until most of the black residue stops appearing on the swab.
4. If you used cleaning fluid, allow parts to dry completely before applying oil.
5. Reapply a light coat of oil. A few drops will suffice. Screwing the parts back together will distribute the oil to the internal threads.
6. Do not oil internal threads, only apply oil to external threads.
Window:
1. Optics people call that front glassy thingy the light shines through a "window," not a lens. Be careful when you clean it because it has a special anti-reflective coating.
2. If you get too aggressive you can damage it. I actually use my hot breath and camera lens papers. Some solvents may damage the coating, so I prefer not to use any.
3. Windows are replaceable, and slight scratches/smudges don't have any impact on the function of the light. I'd try not to worry about it.
Dirty threads can cause premature wear and inhibit the flow of electricity, leading to erratic behavior of the light. You mainly need to worry about the o-rings and threads that are exposed during battery changes.
1. Remove o-rings before cleaning to prevent damage. Normally you can just use your fingers, but we also have special tools to make this easier.
2. If you are performing regular maintenance you can just use with a dry toothbrush, paper towel, tissue, or Q-tip to wipe down the threads.
3. Try to press the swab (or towel) into the threads to get down into the grooves. A toothbrush works great here, but it will also tend to spray dirty stuff around.
4. You don’t want to use cleaning fluids unless you must. Regular cleaning should mostly eliminate the need for cleaning fluids.
5. Reapply a light coat of oil. A few drops will suffice. Screwing the parts back together will distribute the oil to the internal threads.
6. Do not oil internal threads, only apply oil to external threads.
Deep Cleaning (cleaning fluids):
It’s critical that you don’t introduce moisture or oil into the electronics.
1. Remove o-rings before cleaning to prevent damage. Normally you can just use your fingers, but we also have special tools to make this easier.
2. Start with a dry toothbrush, paper towel, tissue, or Q-tip to remove the bulk of the contamination.
3. If your threads are gritty and/or gunked up (from lack of maintenance naughty you) I like to use rubbing alcohol or Windex (something that cuts grease & evaporates quickly).
4. Use as little cleaning fluid as possible. This prevents the liquid from migrating into places where it should not.
5. Try to press the swab (or towel) into the threads to get down into the grooves. A toothbrush works great here, but it will also tend to spray dirty stuff around.
6. Allow parts to dry completely before applying oil.
7. Reapply a light coat of oil. A few drops will suffice. Screwing the parts back together will distribute the oil to the internal threads.
8. Do not oil internal threads, only apply oil to external threads.
Special Note - Alpha Flashlight Head threads:
1. There is a tight fit between the driver mount and the head threads, so it requires a special technique.
2. Take a Q-tip and mash the end flat with a pair of pliers. This will allow the Q-tip to fit between the threads and the cylinder that holds the LED driver.
3. Run the Q-tip clockwise several turns and then back it out counter clockwise. Repeat with a new tip until most of the black residue stops appearing on the swab.
4. If you used cleaning fluid, allow parts to dry completely before applying oil.
5. Reapply a light coat of oil. A few drops will suffice. Screwing the parts back together will distribute the oil to the internal threads.
6. Do not oil internal threads, only apply oil to external threads.
Window:
1. Optics people call that front glassy thingy the light shines through a "window," not a lens. Be careful when you clean it because it has a special anti-reflective coating.
2. If you get too aggressive you can damage it. I actually use my hot breath and camera lens papers. Some solvents may damage the coating, so I prefer not to use any.
3. Windows are replaceable, and slight scratches/smudges don't have any impact on the function of the light. I'd try not to worry about it.
HOW TO CLEAN & MAINTAIN O-RINGS
Spare o-rings are included with all Prometheus and Foursevens flashlights. You probably won't need them, but if the main seal ever breaks or tears, you'll have a replacement on hand. You can purchase replacement o-rings on this page.
A dry o-ring will become cracked and/or otherwise damaged during normal use. A lubricated o-ring will not. Damage will compromise water resistance and make your light difficult to operate. A dry o-ring will make your light difficult to operate.
Petroleum based lubricants should not be used because it will damage the o-ring. I recommend the lubricants we well on the site. I use them personally, and they are what we use when building lights. We know they work.
WD-40 is NOT a lubricant, it is a lubricated cleaning solvent...do not use it!
1. If your o-ring is dry and not dirty, you can just reapply a couple drops of oil. Enough to get smooth operation, but not so much that it drips everywhere. Excess oil attracts dirt…that you’ll have to clean later.
2. For a full cleaning, simply remove the o-ring and clean as needed, being careful not to rip the o-ring with excessive force.
3. An o-ring that is visibly damaged should be replaced (cracked or torn). An o-ring does NOT need to be replaced unless it is damaged.
4. Reapply a light coat of oil. A few drops will suffice.
5. Reinstall the o-ring making sure it is not twisted. A twisted o-ring does not seal well and will accelerate damage.
A dry o-ring will become cracked and/or otherwise damaged during normal use. A lubricated o-ring will not. Damage will compromise water resistance and make your light difficult to operate. A dry o-ring will make your light difficult to operate.
Petroleum based lubricants should not be used because it will damage the o-ring. I recommend the lubricants we well on the site. I use them personally, and they are what we use when building lights. We know they work.
WD-40 is NOT a lubricant, it is a lubricated cleaning solvent...do not use it!
1. If your o-ring is dry and not dirty, you can just reapply a couple drops of oil. Enough to get smooth operation, but not so much that it drips everywhere. Excess oil attracts dirt…that you’ll have to clean later.
2. For a full cleaning, simply remove the o-ring and clean as needed, being careful not to rip the o-ring with excessive force.
3. An o-ring that is visibly damaged should be replaced (cracked or torn). An o-ring does NOT need to be replaced unless it is damaged.
4. Reapply a light coat of oil. A few drops will suffice.
5. Reinstall the o-ring making sure it is not twisted. A twisted o-ring does not seal well and will accelerate damage.
Where It's Made
I do my best to be transparent in all things related to my products (and business in general) because I think it’s important for you to have enough information to make informed decisions. A lot of companies will try to fool you in order to get your business. No sale is important enough to lie or mislead in order to close it. Just my two cents.
Every product I sell has a small flag icon in the “Specifications” tab. If you see a flag with the Prometheus logo on it, that means I make the product in my own shop. A Prometheus flag combined with a country flag means that I combine parts made in-house with parts from an outside vendor to complete the product.
In Alphabetical Order (me first):
At present, I deal with over 70 different vendors all around the globe to make my tiny venture possible. That in itself is a huge management task. I outsource products and services to US vendors whenever I can. More than that, I outsource them locally. I get a lot of nice emails from machine shops around the country (and world) wanting to machine parts for me. Currently all machining is done in-house, but in the past if I got way behind on something I might have a local shop do a short run of parts to fill the gap. The two shops I used most often are a 10 minute drive away. I do this because I can get quality parts (with no supervision from me) even though the cost is very high.
I buy most of my raw metal stock from a small company that three blocks from my shop. I could get it cheaper and faster from somewhere else local, but I don't...because I like them as human beings and because I know my small business helps support theirs. If I need material "yesterday" and they can't get it soon enough, I'll use a larger local vendor, but I try my best never to have material shipped in.
I also outsource a number of products and services from around the globe. None of my sourcing decisions are purely (or primarily) driven by profit motives. One thing that should be made clear: outsourcing does not mean going to a foreign country. It means utilizing resources outside of your own company.
For example, I outsource the manufacturing of my pocket clips through two different US vendors who work on different stages of the manufacturing: one in Massachusetts (couldn't get the expertise/quality locally) and another 5 miles away from my shop (I don't have the specialized equipment for mass production). My point is, outsourcing is not a big deal. You probably outsource your personal email logistics to Google or Hotmail...right? You probably outsource your demand for food to a grocery store or farm...right? What you should pay attention to is WHY companies outsource, not WHERE.
What follows is my own list from my own experience. I did not Google "reasons to outsource." If you do that you'll get a very different answer: dollars. That's because today's thought leaders are teaching this in our country's most prestigious business schools. Go ahead, try Googling it.
According to me, the reasons to outsource are an internal lack of: knowledge, experience, capacity, technology, market power, or supply chain integration. These things normally lead to better cost efficiency...but you'll notice that "cheaper" isn't on my list. That's because if you put "cheaper" on the list you don't actually know what you are doing, and you are part of the problem, not the solution. *microphone drop*
Every product I sell has a small flag icon in the “Specifications” tab. If you see a flag with the Prometheus logo on it, that means I make the product in my own shop. A Prometheus flag combined with a country flag means that I combine parts made in-house with parts from an outside vendor to complete the product.
In Alphabetical Order (me first):
-
Made in-house -
Australia -
China -
Finland -
Germany -
Hong Kong
-
Italy -
Japan -
Mexico -
Pakistan -
United Kingdom -
United States
I buy most of my raw metal stock from a small company that three blocks from my shop. I could get it cheaper and faster from somewhere else local, but I don't...because I like them as human beings and because I know my small business helps support theirs. If I need material "yesterday" and they can't get it soon enough, I'll use a larger local vendor, but I try my best never to have material shipped in.
I also outsource a number of products and services from around the globe. None of my sourcing decisions are purely (or primarily) driven by profit motives. One thing that should be made clear: outsourcing does not mean going to a foreign country. It means utilizing resources outside of your own company.
For example, I outsource the manufacturing of my pocket clips through two different US vendors who work on different stages of the manufacturing: one in Massachusetts (couldn't get the expertise/quality locally) and another 5 miles away from my shop (I don't have the specialized equipment for mass production). My point is, outsourcing is not a big deal. You probably outsource your personal email logistics to Google or Hotmail...right? You probably outsource your demand for food to a grocery store or farm...right? What you should pay attention to is WHY companies outsource, not WHERE.
What follows is my own list from my own experience. I did not Google "reasons to outsource." If you do that you'll get a very different answer: dollars. That's because today's thought leaders are teaching this in our country's most prestigious business schools. Go ahead, try Googling it.
According to me, the reasons to outsource are an internal lack of: knowledge, experience, capacity, technology, market power, or supply chain integration. These things normally lead to better cost efficiency...but you'll notice that "cheaper" isn't on my list. That's because if you put "cheaper" on the list you don't actually know what you are doing, and you are part of the problem, not the solution. *microphone drop*
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